Kombucha – a Japanese word meaning ‘seaweed tea’ or fermented tea is causing a stir in the fashion world. So what does a fermented caffeinated beverage have to do with couture? Well, as it turns out, Kombucha SCOBY fabric is a sustainable solution for fast fashion. This vegan leather is a chic choice for fashionistas who seek eco-friendly and animal-cruelty-free options.
What Kombucha fabric is made of:
Fashion designer Suzanne Lee launched her brand ‘BioCouture’ in early 2000s which started with fashion cultured from kombucha bacteria. She began to experiment with shoes, skirts and jackets etc. made from self-growing organisms and eventually discovered how microbial cellulose can be produced in sugar culture that can create gel-like surface textile. This can be dyed, cut and sewn into fashionable attires.
Black tea, sugar and microbes – mainly these three ingredients combine to form the vegan leather. Through fermentation, SCOBY (Symbiotic Colony of Bacteria and Yeast) is created. Millions of microscopic bacteria and yeast form cellulosic fibres, which transform into a glossy fabric structure. This fabric is breathable and allows airflow, making it suitable for warm climates. Unlike its synthetic counterparts, this SCOBY fabric offers comfort when worn close to skin.
How is Kombucha Fabric different?
Biodegradable: Kombucha fabric is 100% biodegradable. The bacterial culture when decomposed, will enhance the quality of the soil.
Comfort: The smooth leather-like texture offers the wearer more comfort compared to traditional processed leather.
Vegan Leather: Kombucha is a vegan alternative to animal leather.
Sustainable: If Kombucha fabric can be used in fast fashion instead of cotton and synthetic fabric, it will reduce fabric wastage.
Aesthetic appeal: The unique appearance of Kombucha fabric gives off trendy vibes.
How to grow your very own Kombucha:
- Creating the mixture: Boil one gallon of water and add 5-6 teabags and one cup of sugar after removing from heat. Stir the mixture and bring it to room temperature.
- Pouring the mixture into containers and starting growth: Pour the cooled mixture into a two inch deep plastic container and add the Kombucha starter culture. Close the lid of the container and keep it in a cool, dark place. Let it grow for 3-4 weeks until it reaches 3–4 inch thickness. A thick layer forms on the surface with time and rises upwards.
- Extracting the fabric: When the desired thickness is achieved, place the fabric out of the container and rinse with cold soapy water.
- Dyeing: The fabric can be dyed with beet, indigo or other plant based dyes. The natural golden brown texture of the Kombucha SCOBY fabric is also appealing and can be used without dyeing too.
- Drying: The film of fabric is laid out on a piece of wood evenly. When dried in the sun, the water content will evaporate and cause the fabric to shrink and change colour. When fully dried, it can be shaped into stylish pieces of clothing.
Challenges for this vegan leather:
While biodegradable and strong, the Kombucha SCOBY fabric is not waterproof or long-lasting. The bacterial culture in it increases water absorption and makes it susceptible to damage due to wetting. After drying, the texture becomes stiff, causing the fabric to be less flexible. The fabric also has UV sensitivity and exposure to UV may cause the fabric to degrade. As this SCOBY vegan leather is still a new material with limited availability, the prices are high compared to traditional materials.
There’s hope that in the future, these drawbacks could be overcome and the path for Kombucha SCOBY to be a popular biodegradable clothing would be clear. Biotechnology could be used to modify the bacterial activity in Kombucha to make it water-resistant. People would gradually prefer to grow their own clothing with Kombucha instead of relying on synthetic attires that contribute to massive wastage.
