To calculate the fabric consumption, here, at first pattern master designs the Pattern on WINDA CAD system by using measurement chart. At first medium size pattern is made. During pattern making Sewing allowance is added. Then grading is done according to tolerance of increase/decrease. There are a measurement chart & a grading chart for Jeans pant.
Measurement chart of a jeans pant :
| SIZES | 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 36 | 38 | 40 |
| Waist | 76 | 78.5 | 81 | 83.5 | 86 | 88.5 | 91 | 96 | 101 | 106 |
| waistband height | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 |
| Hip at 18cm (without W.B) at side seam/straight | 95 | 97.5 | 100 | 102.5 | 105 | 107.5 | 110 | 115 | 120 | 125 |
| Front rise | 19.4 | 19.8 | 20.2 | 20.6 | 21 | 21.4 | 21.8 | 22.6 | 23.4 | 24.2 |
| Back rise | 31.6 | 32 | 32.4 | 32.8 | 33.2 | 33.6 | 34 | 34.8 | 35.6 | 36.4 |
| inseam 30″ | 76 | 76 | 76 | 76 | 76 | 76 | 76 | 76 | 76 | 76 |
| inseam 32″ | 81 | 81 | 81 | 81 | 81 | 81 | 81 | 81 | 81 | 81 |
| inseam 34″ | 85 | 85 | 85 | 85 | 85 | 85 | 85 | 85 | 85 | 85 |
| inseam 36″ | 89 | 89 | 89 | 89 | 89 | 89 | 89 | 89 | 89 | 89 |
| inseam 38″ | 93 | 93 | 93 | 93 | 93 | 93 | 93 | 93 | 93 | 93 |
| thigh at crotch | 56.5 | 58 | 59.5 | 61 | 62.5 | 64 | 65.5 | 68.5 | 71.5 | 74.5 |
| knee at 35cm from crotch | 36.5 | 37.5 | 38.5 | 39.5 | 40.5 | 41.5 | 42.5 | 44.5 | 46.5 | 48.5 |
| leg opening | 36.5 | 37.5 | 38.5 | 39.5 | 40.5 | 41.5 | 42.5 | 44.5 | 46.5 | 48.5 |
| S/L | Grading points | Increase/decrease | Tolerance |
| 1. | Waist | +/- | 1.5 |
| 2. | Hip | +/- | 1.5 |
| 3. | Thigh | +/- | 1 |
| 4. | Knee | +/- | 1 |
| 5. | Foot | +/- | 1 |
| 6. | Front rise | +/- | 0.5 |
| 7. | Back rise | +/- | 0.5 |
| 8. | Inseam | +/- | 1 |
| 9. | Fly | +/- | 0.5 |
Table: Grading Chart
Consumption Sheet from WINDA CAD system
There is a marker man, who prepares the marker paper using WINDA marker making software. Software shows details information about Fabric consumption. Fabric consumption is calculated automatically considering the no. of garments, efficiency of marker, Shrinkage, cut able width of the fabric, length etc. Here is a fabric consumption sheet below.
Then fabric consumption per dozen is calculated. WINDA CAD system shows it automatically. Calculation formulas are given below.
Fabric consumption per piece = (Fabric Length x Fabric Width (inches))/ (36xNo. Of garments) Yds/Piece
Fabric consumption per dozen = (Fabric Length x Fabric Width (inches) x 12)/ (36xNo. Of garments) Yds/Dozen
Calculation of Fabric cost:
Fabric cost per piece= (Fabric consumption per piece x Fabric price per Yds)
Fabric cost per dozen= (Fabric consumption per dozen x Fabric price per Yds)
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Photo by Michael Burrows: https://www.pexels.com